Our September buying trip was a twenty-five day trek through countless villages in four different regions of France: Normandy, Brittany, la Touraine, and l'Ile de France. Every region of France is unique with its own traditions and culinary specialties,
its own architecture,
and of course, its own charm.
Each French village has its unique personality that gives its inhabitants a sense of belonging--one that's been passed down through the generations. They all share in common familiar destinations that are part of the fabric of everyday life:
The nearby farm...
The local castle...
The weekly market...
The public park...
as well as the central church and the bustling cafes.
Our container from France has just arrived, and our doors are closed starting Friday, November 24th while we unpack! From the villages of France to your own homes, the journey these treasures make in finding their place in the next generation is always such a mysterious one. We at French Metro look forward to showing you our latest finds when we re-open our doors on Friday, December 1st at 10:00 am.
If you’ve ever been to Paris, then you may be familiar with the street and metro stop Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement. This metro stop is named for the eighteenth century fabric manufacturer Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf (1738-1815), the founder of Toile de Jouy, a well-known pattern in wallpapers, fabrics, and other decorative arts.
Hired from Switzerland in 1758 to work in Paris as a colorist and engraver for the cotton manufacturer Sieur Cottin, Oberkampf set out on his own a year later choosing the small town of Jouy-en-Josas to set up his manufactory, a short distance from the promise of Versailles’s clientele, yet close enough to Paris for the masses. Specializing in the highly valued (and formerly banned) Indian cottons, or indiennes as they were called in France, he sought perfection in his innovations with dyes and designs. He created more than 30,000 different designs, ranging from simple floral motifs, to Egyptian styles, as well as displays of eighteenth century French country life. In 1787, Louis XVI had Oberkampf knighted due to his influential designs of the genre scenes of French country living that were so dear to his wife Marie Antoinette. The later cashmere shawls worn by Josephine de Beauharnais were reproduced on Jouy cottons with their paisley and palmette motifs, the latter inspired by her husband’s Egyptian campaign at the end of the 18th century.
By the year 1800 he had revolutionized the printing process, changing from the traditional wood block and copper plate methods for monochromes and designs to the mechanized process of the copper roller. Further decorations continued to be presented to him for his famous prints that had for many years dominated French fashion. In 1806 he was decorated by Napoleon himself on the site of his manufactory with the Cross of the Legion of Honor.
His monochrome scenes often can be read like a history book and, like all art, create a window into the different styles and fashions of the day. Included in his different commemorative prints, in particular, are scenes of the first ever hot air balloons, the American Independence, and moments from the French Revolution that include the anniversary of the storming of the Bastille.
Further exceptional motifs also include scenes from Greek mythology, chinoiseries, the Fables of La Fontaine, the monuments of Paris, Rome, and Egypt, and even popular operas of the time. Known throughout Europe in his day, Oberkampf was a man ahead of his time. Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf died in 1815, the year the Empire of Napoleon collapsed. His son Émile attempted to keep the company alive during the change of regime as best he could. Unfortunately, by 1843 the reputed style of Toile de Jouy had waned and the decline in its desirability had faded. The manufactory closed its doors that same year. However, the lasting effect of his designs and prints would be imitated for generations to come.
Take a look at our very own exceptional Toile viewable on our website:
Built in the fourteenth century, the Pont de Valentré, a bridge spanning the river Lot in Cahors, Southern France, is one that for centuries has been shrouded in mystery and superstition. Originally constructed as a defensive bridge against English invasion during the Hundred Years War, the bridge took seventy years to be built! This may seem somewhat ridiculous considering that the average full-sized castle at the time took between two to ten years to build. In comes the superstition and mystery! Legend has it that the master builder of the time, frustrated with the slow pace of the building project and the eager demands of the local lord to have it completed, signed a pact with the Devil. Agreeing to use his vast power and skills to accelerate the building process, the Devil promised the builder that his bridge would be completed soon if the builder would forfeit his soul upon the bridge’s completion.
After seeing the bridge completed on time, the builder regretted his decision for fear of his immortal soul. Issuing one final order, the builder commanded the Devil to fetch water for his exhausted workmen, however, instead of handing over a proper pail or bucket, the builder tricked the Devil by giving him a sieve. The Devil then went to collect water for the builder knowing that upon his return, the builder’s soul would belong to him. Nevertheless, the Devil realized that he had been tricked by the builder since he was unable to complete the final task with the sieve. Boiling with rage, the Devil vowed that the bridge must therefore never be completed and according to local folklore commanded a demon each night to loosen the final stone of the central tower of the bridge (known as the Devil’s Tower) in order to stay true to the pact. In return, the bridge had to be repaired each day.
I visited this mysterious bridge this summer on a road trip around France. So much superstition surrounds the bridge. Having fallen into disrepair in the nineteenth century, architect Paul Gout, in 1879, had the bridge restored and for good measure had the final stone of the central tower carved into a demon with arms wrapped around the stone.
The updated legend has it that when the Devil comes to check upon his sabotage, the sculpted demon confuses the Devil and fools him into thinking that the stone gargoyle is one of his demons tasked with dismantling the bridge. Truly a well spun tale, this medieval bridge is a site worth visiting in Cahors, France!
We are following the progress of our shipment as it makes its way to Fayetteville. This particular shipment is taking quite a long journey with lots of stops. The ship departed on October 22nd from the port of Le Havre on the French coast, headed up the English Channel to stop at Rotterdam, Holland then on to Bremerhaven, Germany. Next it headed back down the Channel and across the Atlantic to stop at Charleston, South Carolina. Finally a stop in the Bahamas and then on to Houston. Arrival in Houston is November 17th and then we wait while it gets through US Customs before it gets trucked to our loading dock on Dickson Street. It’ll be like Christmas for us here around Thanksgiving time.
There are many beautiful French farm tables this shipment along with some gorgeous nineteenth century oil paintings, a collection of antique French signs, gilt wood mirrors of all sizes, two iron fireplace backs, a few French industrial pieces, and some Art Deco furniture that took our breath away.
Our one-of-a-kind accessories on the way include an enormous brass telescope on a tripod and a pair of very large copper port and starboard ship lanterns, an exquisite toile porcelain of Paris pedestal sink, a gorgeous marquetry box signed by a renown French cabinet maker, a Moet et Chandon silver plate hotel champagne bucket…I could go on. We will send out our email when our ship’s come in. Until then, merci et à bientôt!
It's time for another buying trip! We skipped the hot weather in France this summer, and we are headed across the pond next week. September in France is a fabulous month. The kids are back in school, the tourists are gone, and the weather is fantastic! It is also grape harvest season so a detour to one of the wine regions may be in order as well. This trip I will have a different traveling companion. For the last ten years, my son Alexander has been my constant traveling companion on our buying trips to France, but he is off to new adventures in Ecuador as a foreign service officer for the U.S. State Department. We are so proud of him!
Terry, my life companion for the past thirty-seven years, will be making this next buying trip with me. Although the two of us have traveled thousands of kilometers together through France, both for pleasure and for business, he has often been the one to stay home holding down the fort (meaning home, job, shop, and children). We are excited to be working in France together again.
We will be in France from September 5th to the 28th. Let us know if you have anything on your wish list and follow us on Facebook as we post about our latest adventures.
Now's the time to take advantage of our complimentary custom shopping service too. Complete your detailed wish list below, and we'll email you photos of pieces we find in France that could meet your needs. Plus, all custom purchases qualify for a 10% discount. You will have your own custom shopper in France.
I was born into a family that did not hold dining traditions dear. We were six kids, an overwhelmed mother, and a father who travelled during the week and was only home for dinner on the weekends. The love was there, and dinner was important, but dinner finery, not so much. But kids grow up and discover new ways of doing things, and so did I. When I started my own family, I discovered a lovely French tradition that I embraced as my own. When a baby is born in France, one of the traditional baby gifts is a silver napkin ring. The initials or name of the child is engraved on the silver treasure, and the napkin ring is customarily used at mealtimes throughout his or her family life. A cloth napkin rolled into a napkin ring is as much a part of the table setting as is a knife, fork, or spoon. When the meal is over, one’s napkin is folded back into the napkin ring for the following day. After a few meals, the cloth napkins are exchanged for fresh ones. When my first child Alexander was born, a dear friend with whom I had studied French all throughout high school, college, and abroad in Dijon sent my baby Alexander a silver napkin ring from France with his very long first name engraved on it. I was delighted with such a gift. Three years later, Elliot was born, and a second napkin ring arrived from France. By then, I realized my husband and I needed our own to complete the table so on our first trip to France together, we chose two Christofle silver napkin rings and had them engraved. On went the tradition and the children. Two more babies, Harrison and Camille, and two more napkin rings. There was never a thought that it wasn’t normal to have children setting the table every night with silver napkin rings and cloth napkins next to their plates. It was so taken for granted that one of the children saw his first paper napkin at age five at a neighbor’s dinner table, and asked me what he was supposed to do with it at the end of the meal. He’d never heard of throwing away a napkin!
Some may think the tradition is a bit formal, but we continue to add to our collection. We brought back one for our Brazilian exchange student when it became apparent she would always be part of our family. And our daughter-in-law Cynthia observed the tradition early on before she married our son. She decided she wanted to form napkin rings out of vintage silver forks and spoons for each of their wedding dinner guests, and Elliot stamped each guest’s initials on them. Here was a girl after my own heart!
Of course, I soon sought out a very special antique silver napkin ring in France for my new daughter! And soon after I found a second one for Chef Elliot to use at family meal, one with cooks in the kitchen all around it. It even had an E on it!
Traditions in a family are connecting points, and this tradition is a cherished one of ours, one that started with a French custom and took root in our own family history. We are fortunate that six of the seven of us live in the same neighborhood. We gather for family meal every Sunday, one that chef Elliot now prepares for us, and we are still setting the table with our silver napkin rings.
Wine tasting is an age-old pastime in France, especially if one lives in a region rich in vineyards like Burgundy or Languedoc. My family and I did just this when we made our way north from the Pays Basque along the Spanish border toward the city of Bordeaux, capital of the region known as Aquitaine. This region is known worldwide for its wines, so along the way my family and I made occasional stops. One stop we absolutely loved was the Château de Pitray about an hour drive east of Bordeaux.
When we arrived at the Domaine (the territories of the chateau), we drove down a long colonnade of oak trees before pulling into an open courtyard that lay before the château. We were greeted by the owner whose family has been in possession of the Domaine for nearly six hundred years. Originally constructed in the fifteenth century, the current château was renovated in 1868 by General Louis de Simard de Pitray, then count of the Domaine during the Second Empire. Redone in the romantic neo-Renaissance style, the castle stands almost four stories high with a high-pitched roof whose acute angle makes for an impressive edifice. To the left of the main building is a conglomeration of various structures which include stables, a pigeon aviary, two large stone warehouses, and a small chapel on the other corner of the open courtyard.
As we descended from the car into the courtyard, the current Count de Boigne greeted us and ushered us in through the entrance door. He apologized for the clutter; however, the rooms were immaculately decorated with antiques and oil painting portraits documenting the ancestry of the noble family. As a family in the antique business, my family was in awe of the treasures that seemed to be at home in this great house. The countess, a woman in her seventies at least, was on the phone with a relative, so we were given free rein to explore the foyer and grand hall. Upon entering the dining room however, we were all floored by an enormous hand carved ship’s bow that formed a heraldic crest with the cross of Saint Andrew dividing the central emblem into four quadrants with leopard heads in each one. Below was a hand carved banner with the motto “Dieu y Pourvoira” or “God will Provide” on it. The Count noticed our curious look of disbelief and promptly explained that this colossal sculpture had once been affixed to the ship’s bow of one of the twelve ships under the command of the Count d’Estaing, admiral of the French fleet sent to North America to blockade the British during the American War of Independence. A solemn moment overcame us as we all realized how far the relationship of our two great countries has gone back.
After reviving our senses from the shock of history’s weight, we proceeded toward the grand balcony at the back of the château giving view onto a very large field with bales of wheat lying haphazardly about.
The Countess had just finished her phone call and met us with a warm greeting. We all sat for a while and talked for we had many questions for her since the property was rightfully hers. Pitray impressed us in every way, and we did finally get to the wine tasting!
The conclusion of our visit was our opportunity to secure a few bottles to put aside for our Christmas dinner this year. Fine memories to go with fine wine.
The last Wednesday of every July, the city of Bayonne in the Basque region of France throws a massive city-wide party. Inspired in part by the festivities in Pamplona, Spain, the city of Bayonne has carried out this tradition since the year 1932. Originally sporting the colors of the city, blue and white, the official dress for the event now is to wear all white with red accents; whether a scarf, a hat, or a sash.
This unifying aspect of the community leaves a sense of pride among the citizens and visitors that gather along the Adour and Nive rivers that converge in the city center. A year ago, my family and I had the occasion to go and take part in the festivities. Every year the event begins at the town hall, where a giant puppet named King Leon throws the keys to the city over the balcony and into the crowd.
Based on a comic book character, King Leon is awakened each morning by the children of the city and will roam the streets during the next five days along with his entourage of other giants.
As a sister city of Pamplona, one can find many of the same events. The streets open up to crowds of eager people looking to make merry, and rosé wine is to be found on every street.
A constant thrumming of drums and blowing of horns carries on well into the night, while people flock to the bullring to either watch the fights or to witness other party goers be chased by the bulls. Carnival-like parades with tamborrados (groups of drummers) accompany the crowds as they make their way to the ring. Though the bulls play a major role in the festivities, one can also find traditional Basque songs and music being sung and played throughout the city.
In the parks, Basque sport competitions like Pelota (the forerunner to jai alai) take place. The evenings are crowned by a fireworks display along with concerts in the various squares. I remember best walking the streets and traversing the river multiple times with my family with groups of people eating under covered pavilions on park benches that line the streets. Every table, the group of party goers would have the same uniform. One group even went as far as to look like Waldo (or Charlie as he is called in French).
Of the live music that was playing throughout the city, one group in particular that covered old jazz songs, had me and my brothers wildly dancing with the other revelers one minute and just listening contentedly the next. Seven Hunt family members and the Fete de Bayonne made for happy memories. Here’s to making many more!
For years, my father told me a tale about a mysterious walking stick. He had seen one on one of his travels in France with my mother thirty years ago, but young marrieds as they were, alas there were no funds for him to obtain one. These are no ordinary walking sticks though. The Makhila is a special type of walking stick made in the Basque country in southwestern France and northern Spain, and the authentic ones are made in a single workshop in the village of Larressore, France. Run by the family Bergara who have been making Makhilas since the eighteenth century, these renowned sticks have become the symbol of the honorable Basque man. Possibly going as far back as the Middle Ages, these sticks were originally used by sheep herders and travelers to provide protection from wolves and highwaymen. This past summer, my entire family spent a month in the Basque region of France, and there was no conceivable way we would visit this region without getting my father one of the sticks he had talked about for the entirety of my youth.
And so the day came when the seven of us loaded up in the car and drove to Larressore. It took a moment to find, but finally we pulled into a small pelota court on the side of which was a tiny workshop. When we walked in, we were greeted by a Bergara family member, Charles, who was to be our guide through the process.
All around were photos of famous people being presented with one of these Makhilas. There was Charles de Gaulle, Prince Charles, Winston Churchill, and even actress, Natalie Portman. Charles began showing us the sticks that were currently in the making.
He explained to us the long and exact process that must be followed before one can finally receive an authentic stick. First, they hunt for quality branches on Medlar trees, a type of shrub or small tree to be exact. Once they are found, they make exact incisions that will later form designs on the stick. Several weeks of waiting go by before they can come back and harvest the stick. After shaving the bark off, the sticks are then heated in a kiln and straightened out.
Once this process is complete, the sticks are laid across the rafters of the workshop and allowed to naturally dry and cure. The curing process takes a total of fifteen years! After the stick is cured, Charles takes one final look at the stick, and at this point will decide whether to throw it out or not, depending on if the stick cured properly. If the stick passes the test, then he coats it with a secret family stain, the exact ingredients of which have been kept a mystery for generations to all but the Bergara family. After the stick has dried again, Charles fits it with silver, brass, or gold fittings, and an iron spike that the pommel screws on top of.
So, there we were the seven of us, in this tiny shop, and my father lit up like a child. Many decisions had to be made before we could order his very own stick. Charles began by asking my father’s height and weight since each stick is made to the specifications of the future owner. Next, my father wrote down his initials, his artist’s chop, and his motto. Every Makhila is fitted with these elements: the initials, name, date, and motto (which are then translated into Basque).
My father’s motto, “all through time”, was to be engraved on the stick. Charles informed us that it would take another four months before the Makhila was ready. At last, this past November, my father finally received his cherished Makhila, a noble walking companion for a noble man!
This past summer my family and I spent a month in the Pays Basque region in the southwestern part of France. It had been my mother’s birthday wish that all seven of us be together in France at least once in her lifetime, so we all worked hard to make sure that her wish would come true. Little did she suspect that we had another surprise in store. Before our departure, my father, siblings, and I had tossed around ideas of a nice dinner, or perhaps a champagne tasting. However, it wasn’t until we’d arrived in France that we hatched a better plan. All was decided. My father, sister, and I were to take my mother on a drive up into the foothills of the Pyrenees.
Meanwhile, my brothers, Elliot and Alexander, were to go to the market and pick out cheeses, meats, champagnes, and other delectables. Alexander had researched and found a boat rental company, and we reserved a sailboat with its own captain in Hendaye, a port town just south of Saint Jean de Luz. That evening we told my mother we had reserved a table at a restaurant in Hendaye. My father pulled into the parking lot of the restaurant, but told her we wanted to take a look at the port before dinner. We made our way around the restaurant, and as we turned the corner, my mother caught sight of my two brothers and my sister-in-law Cynthia aboard a thirty-foot sailboat. Needless to say, my mother was beyond surprised!
We boarded the vessel where my brothers had beautifully laid out the spread of food on trays. There was charcuterie of all varieties, stuffed peppers, olives, shrimp, various tapenades, shaved truffles, cheeses, and an array of pastries, chocolates, and macaroons.
Sitting alongside was a champagne bucket full of ice and five different bottles of champagne; Perrier-Laurent, Veuve Cliquot, Moët, Roederer, and Taittinger.
The captain of the boat took us out into the bay, and we sailed along the coast and down the shoreline of France and past the border of Spain. Once we were out at sea, we each took turns steering the boat, and it took my father (who had been a sailor in the Navy) little time before he was messing with ropes and knots.
As we cruised along the coastline, a beautiful sunset began to spread out before our eyes.
The experience was breathtaking. It was then that we decided to get scientific about the champagnes in a blind tasting of the five varieties. After having tried them all, our verdict was almost unanimous: Taittinger was our favorite. Just before dark, we pulled back into the harbor and moored the boat. We thanked the captain and began walking back to the car. However, the night had something else in store for us. We happened to spot a concert playing just beside the water a little further down the quay. We were all in a rather pleasant mood (champagne will do that for you), so we decided to join the festivities and went to see what was going on. As soon as we joined the crowd, we let loose and began to dance.
The evening was cool and the people were radiantly smiling. Rosé was to be found on every table. We made merry and reveled in our good fortune until the small hours of the night when we returned to our rented house in the Pyrenees. The evening was wonderful, one I shall never forget. It was a birthday success one can only dream of.